Tick Tock

While continuing to research images of Edwardian afternoon dresses specifically from the years 1910-1912, I realized I also needed to research what fabrics, colors, trims and decorations were popular at that time.  This activity included researching the fabrics themselves because honestly, without being able to see and touch them I had no idea what the differences are between one type of silk and another.  Or what serge actually is.  Or any number of other fabrics that I had never heard of:  Shepherds plaid?  Mousseline?  Marquisette?  Pongee?  You get the idea.  

I was having a terrible, horrible, no good, very bad time selecting a look  - so I just kept researching. I understood I needed to develop a mental data base of period looks, I just didn't know how many images it would take for my brain to do this.  I also had to know what fabrics were out there in order to select a look, as well as what patterns exist.  So while searching for images, I perused multiple online historic pattern sites and fabric stores seeking acceptable fabrics in period correct colors that I liked for prices I would be willing to pay.  (Mind you, I will never, ever, add up the actual cost of this project, but there are limits.)  This was making me crazy!  I started wondering what was wrong with me and why couldn't I just make a decision?  My husband's occasional mild inquiries about when was I "actually going to start doing something" did nothing to help calm my growing frenzy.

I felt that part of my problem was not being able to see and touch the fabrics.  Fabric shopping has always been a sensory experience for me so how could I possibly choose a fabric without being able to feel it, and see the color, finish, and drape?  I seriously considered taking the Bolt Bus to New York for a day trip to shop for my fabrics at Mood, but felt that would be a little excessive.  I persevered with online shopping and when I found myself liking one particular look, I ordered swatches of fabrics I thought would work well for that ensemble.  I ordered one dress pattern, then a second.  I conceived ever more elaborate design concepts for the look while waiting for the swatches, only to find that by the time the swatches arrived I'd abandoned the entire idea as unfeasible and moved on to a new vision.  This was not good.

Feeling I was loosing ground, I had an idea: books!  Books always help.  I looked at my public library and found very little on this subject.  I researched costume design books and fashion design books from the period.  My enabler, uh, friend told me about some standard references for historical sewing.  I ordered several in the fervent hope they would contain some arcane information that would shed a little light on my situation - but to no avail.  They only provided additional possibilities!  I sent out frantic SOS's in the form of lengthy emails to a few close friends, trusting they knew me well enough not to judge.

Finally I had looked through enough images to identify some fashion trends.  Overdresses were very popular during this era, often made of chiffon or lace.  So many of the images I liked were of this style that I decided this is the direction I would go.  Looking at my saved images, I decided the overdress was a separate garment worn over the dress, rather like a bathrobe.  I became fixated on a dress in a fashion plate, and I thought I could embroider an elaborate border around the chiffon along with ornate button holes and buttons.  It would be fabulous! 

I took a moment and pulled myself back from the brink, again. 

I found another look to fall in love with, and ordered a third dress pattern that I thought I could alter to make the look I wanted.  To eliminate the possibility of backsliding again, I chose a fabric.  It is a pretty aubergine silk noil that would work well with my look.  I ordered 5 yards.  And then I found a wonderful source for lace fabric on Etsy and ordered a bunch of swatches.  Any one of these would make an amazing overdress!  


When the pattern arrived I saw that my approach was probably not correct.  Earlier my historical sewing friend had pointed me towards a facebook group for Edwardian era clothing and costumes.  (I did already know there is a facebook group for virtually everything as I had recently found one for English speaking people selling accordions - but that's another story for another day.)  I posted my overdress question to this Edwardian fb page and several people confirmed that overdresses were not separate garments.  This meant this project would be more a complex one than I wanted to tackle, sending me back to the drawing board.  And all the while my husband continued to mildly inquire when would I actually start doing something?  

Serendipity helped me make the final decision when my fabric and a length of vintage lace I'd ordered arrived the same day.  They looked so smashing together that I decided I'd go with a third look that had drawn my eye. 

Next installment: building a corset